A Beginner’s Guide to Skincare
Welcome to the vast world of skincare where there are literally millions of products out there and thousands of recommendations for a handful of concerns. Where to begin? Hopefully this quick guide will help you get started!
You only really need a cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen in your routine to cover the basic hygienic components of a skincare routine: cleaning the surface of your skin, keeping it optimally hydrated, and protecting it from UV damage. But…you want more. The first thing you need to do is figure out what your top skincare concerns are, which can include some of the following :
Dehydration: your face feels tight and dry (even if it gets oily throughout the day!)
Sensitivity: a common sensation for you is mild redness and stinging upon application of products—this is not the same as an allergy.
Redness: whether hormonal, environmental, or a combination of both, you frequently experience mild, transient redness with no sensations.
Acne/congestion: clogged pores, breakouts, etc.
Hyperpigmentation: this can be from old acne marks or general hyperpigmentation from hormonal, environmental, etc. causes as well.
Wrinkles/fine lines
Once you’ve identified your main concerns, it’s time to build a routine centered around products that cater to those concerns. A lot of people tend to buy products that appeal to their senses or use buzzwords that sound exciting (i.e. general, meaningless terms like “glow serum,” “booster,” “refining,” etc.). While the vast majority of these products are fine, they may not be the most optimal option for the concerns you have, so remember to keep an eye on ingredients that appeal to you more so than marketing.
Below is a list of product types and basic ingredients to look out for for each of the above concerns:
Dehydration: humectant-rich serums are your best friend here. Apply a hydration liquid base layer and the hydrating serum immediately on top to hold onto that moisture. Ingredients to look out for include: hyaluronic acid and the “hyaluronates” family, glycerin, urea, panthenol. Bonus ingredients: ceramides, cholesterol, sodium PCA, amino acids, and hydrating peptides.
Sensitivity: the goal here is to prevent irritation, especially when it is associated with the application of exfoliating products and retinoids. We tend to follow the “sandwich” method, wherein you apply a soothing product, then your treatments, and then another layer of the same soothing product. Soothing products come in all forms, but your best bet lies with creamy or milky serums and moisturizers. Ingredients to look for are barrier-supportive/replenishing and include: ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, phospholipids, amino acids, ectoin, squalane, plant oils and butters, natural moisturizing factors, and even oat/oat extracts.
Redness: for moderate-severe forms of redness that is not transient, we first recommend seeking professional counsel, as this may be a sign of a medical condition rather than a temporary situation and easy fix. You can certainly try the aforementioned products for sensitivity, as redness is often a sign of this as well, but if your skin is still just a bit stubborn, an ingredient to keep in mind is azelaic acid, or its derivative potassium azeloyl diglycinate.
Acne/congestion: again, this is a wide spectrum of concerns that may warrant medical intervention, but if you’re experiencing mild congestion of the skin with transient breakouts that are relatively manageable, it may be worth a shot attempting OTC options before going straight to the derm. Ingredients to look out for include: BHA (AKA salicylic acid), benzoyl peroxide, and retinoids. None of these ingredients should be used within the same routine/time of day—although there are rare exceptions due to encapsulation technology, etc. that we discuss on @the.top.shelf.edit feed and individual product reviews. We have found these products do a great job in multiple forms, from liquid BHA exfoliants to BPO washes, so look for products that would fit easily into your routine on a regular basis.
Hyperpigmentation: there are a few routes for the development of hyperpigmentation and the nice thing is, there are plenty of products out there that block certain pathways, so there *should* be something out there for everyone—again, as long as your hyperpigmentation is not associated with a medical condition, such as melasma, which can only be treated by a dermatologist. The key ingredient I’m sure you’ve heard of is Vitamin C, but our personal preference lies with alternative brightening ingredients including kojic acid and its derivative diglucosyl gallic acid, arbutin, azelaic acid and its derivative potassium azeloyl diglycinate, tranexamic acid, mandelic acid, licorice root extact, and brightening peptides. Most of these ingredients will pack a punch in the form of a serum, but the most important thing to remember here is sunscreen, as that prevents the formation and worsening of hyperpigmentation far better than most corrective treatments.
Wrinkles/fine lines: This is the concern that may take the longest to see results in your products with, but patience and adequate sun protection are key. You want to combine the best of a hydrating approach with antioxidants and skin-supportive peptides, retinoids, and/or Vitamin C, typically in the form of serums and moisturizers.